Təbriklər Azərbaycan! 05/14/2011
Azerbaijan's fourth Eurovision attempt turned out to be charmed one. Since joining the European Broadcasting Union in 2007 the small Caucasus country placed well in the pan-European exercise in ESL English, ridiculous costumes, and saccharine pop, coming in 3rd in 2009 and 5th in 2010.
On Saturday night, Eldar Kasimov and Nigar Djamal AKA Ell & Nikki brought home the trophy with their appropriately sentimental tune "Running Scared" (see below for video).
It's hard to overstate just how big a deal this is for Azerbaijanis. Beyond being a point of national pride, the Eurovision contest has been a matter of economic planning. The winner of the contest hosts the following year's competition and Azerabaijan has been preparing for its day in the Eurovision sun since it entered the competition. Hotels were built, venues constructed--all far in excess of domestic demand.
Eurovision will fill those largely empty spaces, if only for a summer, and more importantly give Azerbaijan a chance to prove that it has the infrastructure and temperament to host major, international events.
Update- Der Spiegel considers both the opportunities and potential pitfalls for Azerbaijan:
Next year, the spotlight will be on Azerbaijan with both its boom and its youthful success with Ell/Nikki, but also its political and human rights blemishes. The song contest could be a Grand Prix opportunity for Baku to show a new face of prosperity and success, and for Azerbaijan to polish its reputation. Perhaps the extra international attention will prompt the government to allow more freedoms and put pressure on the regime to better its human rights record.
But the event could also leave Eurovision running scared if the government doesn't take action to improve its international image.
On Saturday night, Eldar Kasimov and Nigar Djamal AKA Ell & Nikki brought home the trophy with their appropriately sentimental tune "Running Scared" (see below for video).
It's hard to overstate just how big a deal this is for Azerbaijanis. Beyond being a point of national pride, the Eurovision contest has been a matter of economic planning. The winner of the contest hosts the following year's competition and Azerabaijan has been preparing for its day in the Eurovision sun since it entered the competition. Hotels were built, venues constructed--all far in excess of domestic demand.
Eurovision will fill those largely empty spaces, if only for a summer, and more importantly give Azerbaijan a chance to prove that it has the infrastructure and temperament to host major, international events.
Update- Der Spiegel considers both the opportunities and potential pitfalls for Azerbaijan:
Next year, the spotlight will be on Azerbaijan with both its boom and its youthful success with Ell/Nikki, but also its political and human rights blemishes. The song contest could be a Grand Prix opportunity for Baku to show a new face of prosperity and success, and for Azerbaijan to polish its reputation. Perhaps the extra international attention will prompt the government to allow more freedoms and put pressure on the regime to better its human rights record.
But the event could also leave Eurovision running scared if the government doesn't take action to improve its international image.
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Twelve days after Ben Ali fled Tunisia and two after Egypt's day of rage, Azerbaijani President Ilham Aliyev ordered the head of the Presidential Apparatus Ramiz Mehdiyev to convene the government’s anti-corruption commission for the first time since 2009. That meeting resulted in a series of directives ordering government employees to stop taking bribes and a warning that punishment for anyone who continued would be swift and absolute.
After listening to Azerbaijani officials tell me in one breath that corruption really wasn’t a serious issue and in the next that the government was doing all it could to address the problem for a year, I was extremely skeptical. If there is one thing the Aliyev government has become adept at, it is building facades. But after asking around I found, much to my surprise, that the new anti-corruption campaign is very much real. From ministries in Baku, to local governments in Sheki and Barda, government officials have stopped taking bribes. Even the infamous envelope system that directed money to the upper levels of the country’s bureaucracy has been abolished. Possibly more surprising, bureaucrats that violate the president’s decree have been removed in Saakashvili-style purges.
So why did one of the world’s most corrupt governments decide to go legitimate? I see three overlapping explanations:
After listening to Azerbaijani officials tell me in one breath that corruption really wasn’t a serious issue and in the next that the government was doing all it could to address the problem for a year, I was extremely skeptical. If there is one thing the Aliyev government has become adept at, it is building facades. But after asking around I found, much to my surprise, that the new anti-corruption campaign is very much real. From ministries in Baku, to local governments in Sheki and Barda, government officials have stopped taking bribes. Even the infamous envelope system that directed money to the upper levels of the country’s bureaucracy has been abolished. Possibly more surprising, bureaucrats that violate the president’s decree have been removed in Saakashvili-style purges.
So why did one of the world’s most corrupt governments decide to go legitimate? I see three overlapping explanations:
Azerbaijani officials have impeccable timing. Just one day before Human Rights Watch released a 94-page report documenting the regime’s attempt to limit freedom of expression, pro-government Lider TV aired a (horribly awkward) sex tape featuring an opposition newspaper editor. From RFE/RL:
Azer Ahmedov, a technical editor of the opposition newspaper "Azadliq," admitted a few days after the video appeared online that he is in the video. Ahmedov, who is separated from his wife, then resigned from his job and reportedly went to Turkey.
In a commercial showed widely on Lider TV, viewers were told to watch the evening news show "Seda." It was during this program that the video of Ahmedov and a woman having sex was shown. The announcer says that what is happening in the video is a result of the "asymetric policy from the West."
While engaging in oral sex, the Lider TV moderator said "we have to show this to the Western world, especially to France, so they know that their methods are very close to our opposition."
Azeri officials have become adept at controlling journalists since the government lifted official censorship in 1998. While accusations of drug use, homosexuality and defamation are common, the sex tape route is a new and particularly disheartening twist. Look for more of the same in the coming weeks as the government prepares for the November 7th parliamentary election.
For the curious, here is a link to the actual footage. Warning, it's completely NSFW .
P.S. RFE/RL might want to hire some new editors. That last sentence is more than a bit misleading.
Azer Ahmedov, a technical editor of the opposition newspaper "Azadliq," admitted a few days after the video appeared online that he is in the video. Ahmedov, who is separated from his wife, then resigned from his job and reportedly went to Turkey.
In a commercial showed widely on Lider TV, viewers were told to watch the evening news show "Seda." It was during this program that the video of Ahmedov and a woman having sex was shown. The announcer says that what is happening in the video is a result of the "asymetric policy from the West."
While engaging in oral sex, the Lider TV moderator said "we have to show this to the Western world, especially to France, so they know that their methods are very close to our opposition."
Azeri officials have become adept at controlling journalists since the government lifted official censorship in 1998. While accusations of drug use, homosexuality and defamation are common, the sex tape route is a new and particularly disheartening twist. Look for more of the same in the coming weeks as the government prepares for the November 7th parliamentary election.
For the curious, here is a link to the actual footage. Warning, it's completely NSFW .
P.S. RFE/RL might want to hire some new editors. That last sentence is more than a bit misleading.
Today.az > The Onion 09/10/2010
Today.az is quite simply the best source for unintentionally hilarious news from the South Caucasus:
Exhibit 1 "Over 100 children circumcised for free in Baku" During the procedure, the doctors experienced some difficulties because some teenagers were afraid of surgery. For example, doctors had to circumcise a 13-year old boy only after calming him down.
Exhibit 2 An interview with Brent Huff (?): How did a basketball player turned into one of the top male models of the 80’s? How did a model became an action hero, with an M-60 hanged on his chest? How did an actor became a director? In an exclusive interview, Brent Huff answers those questions, remembers his work with Hollywood legend Richard Harris, and also tells the difference between Mark Dacascos and Michael Madsen.
Exhibit 3 An excerpt from Azerbaijani President Ilham Aliyev's letter of congratulation to Kim Jong-il. Yes that Kim Jong-il: "On my own behalf and on behalf of the Azerbaijan people, I cordially congratulate you and all your people on the national holiday - the Day of Establishment of Democratic People's Republic of Korea. I am confident that the traditional relations of friendship and cooperation between our countries will continually develop and expand in the interests of our peoples."
(Isn't correspondence with an international pariah something you'd want to keep on the DL?)
While Today.az's current tag-line is catchy enough, I think the site would be better served with something like "Making Azerbaijan Look Batshit Crazy Since 2003."
Exhibit 1 "Over 100 children circumcised for free in Baku" During the procedure, the doctors experienced some difficulties because some teenagers were afraid of surgery. For example, doctors had to circumcise a 13-year old boy only after calming him down.
Exhibit 2 An interview with Brent Huff (?): How did a basketball player turned into one of the top male models of the 80’s? How did a model became an action hero, with an M-60 hanged on his chest? How did an actor became a director? In an exclusive interview, Brent Huff answers those questions, remembers his work with Hollywood legend Richard Harris, and also tells the difference between Mark Dacascos and Michael Madsen.
Exhibit 3 An excerpt from Azerbaijani President Ilham Aliyev's letter of congratulation to Kim Jong-il. Yes that Kim Jong-il: "On my own behalf and on behalf of the Azerbaijan people, I cordially congratulate you and all your people on the national holiday - the Day of Establishment of Democratic People's Republic of Korea. I am confident that the traditional relations of friendship and cooperation between our countries will continually develop and expand in the interests of our peoples."
(Isn't correspondence with an international pariah something you'd want to keep on the DL?)
While Today.az's current tag-line is catchy enough, I think the site would be better served with something like "Making Azerbaijan Look Batshit Crazy Since 2003."
George Friedman on Azerbaijan 07/12/2010
During his visit to Azerbaijan last month, George Friedman (aka Stratfor dude) repeatedly admitted ignorance about the Caucasus generally and Azerbaijan specifically, so when I saw Stratfor had a new report on Azerbaijan, I was more than a bit skeptical. Surprisingly, the piece wasn’t that bad, which isn't to say it was actually good.
Friedman spends the most of the article playing in the geopolitical shallows and there are some pretty epic WTF moments. But between paraphrasing the Wikipedia page on Caucasus geography and claiming that the Caucasus is the region “most likely to involve the United States” in conflict he manages to make a couple important points:
First, regardless of what Hillary Clinton said during her meetings with President Ilham Aliyev and Foreign Minister Elmar Mammadyarov, the resolution of the Nagorno Karabakh conflict is low on Washington’s list of priorities and will remain so for the foreseeable future: “Clinton’s call for negotiations and her offer of U.S. help are not particularly significant, especially since the call was for Washington to help under the guise of international, not bilateral, negotiations.”
Second, for the three countries in the South Caucasus geography is, was and forever will be a liability: “It [the region] is quiet now — but like the Balkans in 1990, quiet does not necessarily reassure any of the players. Therefore, seven players are involved in a very small space. Think of it as a cauldron framed by Russia, Iran and Turkey, occasionally stirred by Washington, for whom each of the other three major powers poses special challenges of varying degrees.”
The rest of the article is standard Stratfor fare. Friedman claims that America wants to build a close relationship with Azerbaijan so that it can “put U.S. hands on one of Turkey’s sources of oil,” completely ignores Azerbaijan’s essential role in the US’s war in Afghanistan, and manages to go the entire article without discussing Azerbaijan’s economic situation, Nabucco, or significant political issues like the absence of an American ambassador in Baku.
At the end of the day, if you really want to learn about politics of the Caucasus, I’d recommend you cancel your Stratfor membership and read Thomas de Waal, Thomas Goltz, or Steve Levine instead. They've all been here more than once.
-Evan
P.S. In contrast to a lot of the weird stuff Stratfor publishes, Friedman's remarks at the Azerbaijan Diplomatic Academy while he was here in Azerbaijan were excellent. Check out some of the highlights here.
Friedman spends the most of the article playing in the geopolitical shallows and there are some pretty epic WTF moments. But between paraphrasing the Wikipedia page on Caucasus geography and claiming that the Caucasus is the region “most likely to involve the United States” in conflict he manages to make a couple important points:
First, regardless of what Hillary Clinton said during her meetings with President Ilham Aliyev and Foreign Minister Elmar Mammadyarov, the resolution of the Nagorno Karabakh conflict is low on Washington’s list of priorities and will remain so for the foreseeable future: “Clinton’s call for negotiations and her offer of U.S. help are not particularly significant, especially since the call was for Washington to help under the guise of international, not bilateral, negotiations.”
Second, for the three countries in the South Caucasus geography is, was and forever will be a liability: “It [the region] is quiet now — but like the Balkans in 1990, quiet does not necessarily reassure any of the players. Therefore, seven players are involved in a very small space. Think of it as a cauldron framed by Russia, Iran and Turkey, occasionally stirred by Washington, for whom each of the other three major powers poses special challenges of varying degrees.”
The rest of the article is standard Stratfor fare. Friedman claims that America wants to build a close relationship with Azerbaijan so that it can “put U.S. hands on one of Turkey’s sources of oil,” completely ignores Azerbaijan’s essential role in the US’s war in Afghanistan, and manages to go the entire article without discussing Azerbaijan’s economic situation, Nabucco, or significant political issues like the absence of an American ambassador in Baku.
At the end of the day, if you really want to learn about politics of the Caucasus, I’d recommend you cancel your Stratfor membership and read Thomas de Waal, Thomas Goltz, or Steve Levine instead. They've all been here more than once.
-Evan
P.S. In contrast to a lot of the weird stuff Stratfor publishes, Friedman's remarks at the Azerbaijan Diplomatic Academy while he was here in Azerbaijan were excellent. Check out some of the highlights here.
Interesting Move, Ashton 06/03/2010
In what has to be one of the most bizarre instances of celebrity diplomacy in recent memory, Ashton Kutcher, UN goodwill ambassador and cougar-lover, is headed to Azerbaijan:
Kutcher's friend, and regional MTV director Matthew Goldstein told this to Vesti.Az.
"Kutcher, who is a UN goodwill ambassador will visit Baku in September. He will also take part in a festival organized due to the opening of MTV channel in Azerbaijan. Kutcher will also have a press-conference in Baku, devoted to Nagorno-Karabakh conflict. He is well aware of the four UN resolutions which urge Armenia to withdraw its armed forces from the occupied territories. His spouse Demi Moore also expressed her wish to visit Azerbaijan. Kutcher plans to explain Americans the difference between Azerbaijan and Armenia, since most Americans dont know that difference", said Goldstein.
So far it is unknown, whether Kutcher will also visit the occupied territories of Azerbaijan.
I can't wait to read Ashton's tweets about the predominance of territorial integrity over self determination. Also I'm not sure if Ashton knows it yet but this is going to make for some awkward moments with Kim Kardashian.
Hat tip to Sarah for the link
Kutcher's friend, and regional MTV director Matthew Goldstein told this to Vesti.Az.
"Kutcher, who is a UN goodwill ambassador will visit Baku in September. He will also take part in a festival organized due to the opening of MTV channel in Azerbaijan. Kutcher will also have a press-conference in Baku, devoted to Nagorno-Karabakh conflict. He is well aware of the four UN resolutions which urge Armenia to withdraw its armed forces from the occupied territories. His spouse Demi Moore also expressed her wish to visit Azerbaijan. Kutcher plans to explain Americans the difference between Azerbaijan and Armenia, since most Americans dont know that difference", said Goldstein.
So far it is unknown, whether Kutcher will also visit the occupied territories of Azerbaijan.
I can't wait to read Ashton's tweets about the predominance of territorial integrity over self determination. Also I'm not sure if Ashton knows it yet but this is going to make for some awkward moments with Kim Kardashian.
Hat tip to Sarah for the link
Driving Through the Caucasus 05/03/2010
Evan and I don't usually like doing personal posts-- our lives really aren't interesting enough to be followed 24/7, and I've always felt that blogging about yourself becomes egotistical pretty fast.
However, over the past few weeks our lives were actually interesting--and we were actually in the same place for once--so we've uploaded a few videos from our trip. This one is in the mountains of Azerbaijan, going from the village of Xınalıq down to the town of Quba, en route to Baku. The vehicle is a Soviet UAZ-469. Enjoy! (dramamine recommended)
However, over the past few weeks our lives were actually interesting--and we were actually in the same place for once--so we've uploaded a few videos from our trip. This one is in the mountains of Azerbaijan, going from the village of Xınalıq down to the town of Quba, en route to Baku. The vehicle is a Soviet UAZ-469. Enjoy! (dramamine recommended)
Ladies and Gentlemen, the legend of Xınalıq, Nevruz Bey:
Mountain Creek:
Never Let Your Regime Decorate 03/25/2010
If you ever ask an Azeri official how this small, resource rich country intends to make money after its oil and natural gas reserves dry up, the answer, almost to a man, is tourism. Yes, tourism.
As anyone who has ever flown into Heydar Aliyev International Airport knows, the tourism sector in Azerbaijan is, shall we say, underdeveloped. A tourist visa costs an exorbitant $131 (assuming you are a US citizen) and once you exit the airport, the situation isn't much better. There are very few traditional tourist sites, the country is extremely expensive, and most of the transportation infrastructure hails from the Brezhnev era.
In short there is a good reason that most of the "tourists" one sees in Baku are either businessmen trying to kill time before their next meeting or Germans waiting for the ferry to Turkmenistan.
Don't get me wrong, I love living in Azerbaijan. There are many amazing things to do and see here and Azeris are beyond hospitable. But the reality is that when an upper-middle class family of four decides where to spend their vacation dollar, very few will choose Azerbaijan. Certainly not enough to replace the billions of dollars revenue of generated by the sale of Azeri oil and natural gas.
Read more after the jump ---->
As anyone who has ever flown into Heydar Aliyev International Airport knows, the tourism sector in Azerbaijan is, shall we say, underdeveloped. A tourist visa costs an exorbitant $131 (assuming you are a US citizen) and once you exit the airport, the situation isn't much better. There are very few traditional tourist sites, the country is extremely expensive, and most of the transportation infrastructure hails from the Brezhnev era.
In short there is a good reason that most of the "tourists" one sees in Baku are either businessmen trying to kill time before their next meeting or Germans waiting for the ferry to Turkmenistan.
Don't get me wrong, I love living in Azerbaijan. There are many amazing things to do and see here and Azeris are beyond hospitable. But the reality is that when an upper-middle class family of four decides where to spend their vacation dollar, very few will choose Azerbaijan. Certainly not enough to replace the billions of dollars revenue of generated by the sale of Azeri oil and natural gas.
Read more after the jump ---->
Need a Vacation? Try an Azeri Oil Spa 08/12/2009

Nothing heals like extra heavy Azeri crude. So says spa owner Alif Zulfugar: “Naftalan (oil) is too heavy for the industry,” Zulfugar explains, “it is used only for healing purposes. It is untreated and comes directly from the source into our tankers and then into our basins.”
And surprisingly, it isn't that expensive. A full 10-day treatment cycle only costs $420. Talk about the advantages of $70 a barrel oil. CSM has a full review here.
And surprisingly, it isn't that expensive. A full 10-day treatment cycle only costs $420. Talk about the advantages of $70 a barrel oil. CSM has a full review here.
Nabucco Rides On 07/13/2009
On Monday representatives from Turkey, Austria, Bulgaria, Hungary, and Romania signed a transit agreement in Ankara.
The move represents a small but important step forward for the Nabucco project. Infighting over the preceding months had all but doomed the pipeline. But Azerbaijan's recent agreement with Russia forced Turkey to abandon its harsh negotiating position, effectively ending the deadlock.
What the Nabucco nations must do now is build on this momentum. Both Azerbaijan and Turkmenistan have recently reaffirmed their interest in the project. It is essential that Nabucco get firm commitments from these countries within the next few months to capitalize on Gazprom's overextension.
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